Cream Coat Re-Fashion Part 2

A couple of days ago I posted pics of a cream colored wool coat I found at the thrift store.

The coat was a size 12 and I needed to cut it down to about a size 4.  Here is what I did.

First I had to figure out how much I needed to cut it down.  Coats are a little tricky because they are sized to be worn over other clothing.  I found that one of the easiest ways to figure out where to start when cutting down garments like this one is to look at the size chart from the manufacturer.

I googled a size chart for Harve Benard clothing but I couldn't find one provided by the company so I just referred to a general Women's size chart from a company that sells Outerwear..., like this one from http://www.sierratradingpost.com/.

General Women's Size Chart

For Alpha sizing, hover over "Sizes Available" shown above to determine the Numeric size conversion listed below.

	0	2	4	6	8	10	12	14	16	18	20	22	24
Bust	31.5	32.5	33.5	34.5	35.5	36.5	38	39.5	41	43	45	47	49
Waist	23.5	24.5	25.5	26.5	27.5	28.5	30	31.5	33	35	37	39	41
Hip	33.5	34.5	35.5	36.5	37.5	38.5	40	41.5	43	45	47	49	51

Plus Sizing

	16W	18W	20W	22W	24W	26W
Bust	42	44	46	48	50	52
Waist	34	36	38	40	42	44
Hip	46	48	49	51	53	55

Note: Please use the following sizing chart for general reference only. Sizes between different vendors and manufacturers do vary. Item specific sizing is best found in the item description.

I compared the standard measurements for a size 12 to the measurements for a size 4 and figured the difference between them for Bust, Waist and Hips.  I chose to compare them to a size 4 because that is the size I usually wear in a coat.  The actual measurements for a size 4 are not exactly the same as my own, but I have found choosing the size that is closest to what I usually wear for each type of garment is a better match for fitting than comparing my own measurements to the ones in the size chart.  These size charts never make sense to what size i actually would wear, but they do work really well for figuring out how many inches to take out or add to something.

Soooo, basically the difference between a size 12 ( the current size of the coat) and a size 4 (the size I want to make it)... is sometimes like this...
Bust   38 - 33.5 = 4.5 Inches
Waist   30 - 24.5 = 5.5 Inches
Hips   40 - 35.5 = 4.5 Inches
I also know that I am going to have to adjust the shoulders, but I will have to figure what I can take out when I get the coat taken apart.

Next I just start by detaching the lining and taking out the sleeves.


I also removed the shoulder pads and armcye reinforcement.

After taking the jacket a part, I tried it on and marked the shoulder line where I wanted the seam to sit at the edge of my shoulders.

Then I added the seam allowance and trimmed the shoulder seam back.






Next I marked the side seams using the measurements I figured from the steps above and then sewed the new seams.

Then I adjusted the sleeve seams by the same amount and reset them into the arm openings.






Next I picked out the old seam stitching and trimmed and pressed the seams at the new stitching.

In the back section of this coat, I used the extra fabric from adjusting the center back seam to create gathers at the back of the coat.

It was a fun detail, but the photos didn't turn out for me to show you how I did that step.

Last I sewed the lining back in and replaced the shoulder pads and added some lace detail to the Back, Sleeves and Front of the coat and changed out the buttons.

              And that's it.  I turned out pretty cute for only $4 and some stuff from my lace and button box.